The Sultan of Salton
1:1
The
small beach side town of Bombay Beach is anything but picturesque, located on
the Northeast shore of ‘The Salton Sea’. The average temperature is ninety-six
degrees. The landscape, as it appears, has a post-apocalyptic feel about it,
stark white sand, abandoned homes in every state of dilapidation covered with
salt. Vehicles and motor boats left behind and scattered about, covered in salt
and rust stripped of anything that may have held value.
The
small town is one of several that popped up around The Salton Sea in the 1950’s
into the 1960’s. Resembling a gorgeous glittering sapphire on a bed of white
satin, The Salton Sea was dedicated as “The West’s Greatest Playground” and
developers planned to have it rival nearby Palm Springs. Frank Sinatra, Dean
Martin, Sammy Davis Jr. performed at the North Shore Yacht Club. Boat races
were held in the summer months and developers invested money into The Salton
Sea and the towns and cities that popped up on its shores. The town of Bombay
Beach, Salton City and North Shore were designed, and big plans were laid out
for their prosperous futures on the ‘Sea Surrounded by Desert’.
However,
unlike most fairy tales an unfortunate circumstance happened in the sea by the
late 1960’s. The salinity in The Salton Sea began to increase; so much so it
out number the Pacific Ocean salinity by 25% by the 1990’s. The increase in
salinity caused the sea to turn from a gorgeous clear sapphire blue into a
murky, cloudy alga blooms all throughout the sea. Along with the algae came a
stench that when mixed with the desert heat became unbearable to stand next to.
Development stopped. People moved away.
Contrary
to the written accounts of The Salton Sea and its bleak history, vibrant
communities have developed and flourished. Bombay Beach became one of the most
developed around The Salton Sea. Laid out in the traditional grid, Bombay Beach
had nine avenues which ran north to south and named “Avenue A”- “Aisle of
Palms” (Avenue I). The avenues were intersected by five streets which ran east
to west and named 1st Street- 5th Street.
Salma
arrived at ‘The Salty Shack’, the corner of Avenue C and 5th Street,
a little after eleven in the morning on a Thursday in July. A thermostat that
hung on the front porch of the shack read 107. She didn’t need a thermostat to
tell her the temperature; from the smell of the sea Salma easily declared the
temperature closer to 115. Unlocking the door to The Salty Shack, Salma had to
give a nudge with her shoulder twice as the door would stick. Salt build up
overnight was common with the building being so close to The Salton Sea. The
door popped open with a haunted house style creak. Salma started to walk inside
when she heard a shuffle and an incoherent muttering in the distance. Turning
she saw Crazy Carl walking toward The Salty Shack along 5th Street.
“Morning
Carl!” Salma said waving.
Carl
didn’t acknowledge Salma and chatted to himself walking toward Avenue A. Salma
picked up on the usual words Carl muttered “silver” “crash” “splash” “wet”
“eat” and always “absorption” ending his chant before starting over. Salma
forced a smile and felt the usual pity/helplessness for Crazy Carl who seemed
lost and in search of something as usual.
In
The Salty Shack Salma’s eyes looked at the index cards thumbtacked to the wall
behind the register. “silver”, “crash”, “splash”, “wet”, “eat” and “absorption’
were written in her hand writing. She had written down the words Carl said
since she moved to Bombay Beach and there was never an unfamiliar word or
different order to the words Crazy Carl spoke.
Salma
looked out The Salty Shacks front door as Crazy Carl passed on the same
walking/shuffle loop; walking down Avenue E turning right on 5th
Street walking to Avenue A turning right to 1st Street and ending
back at his home on the corner of 1st Street and Avenue G. A big
square that started and finished at the house Carl lived with his aging mother since
the early 1960’s.
Salma
turned on the lights and got the day underway. On an average day at The Salty
Shack only the locals would come in. Come in for a soda, a six pack or an ice
cream. The air conditioning in the shack also provided the locals with an oasis
away from their homes. Salma loved this part of the job, talking and catching
up with everyone who lived in town. Getting the gossip, seeing if any tourists
attempted to swim in the sea or the worst, if any tourists decorated the many
ruins of Bombay Beach with spray painted graffiti. The spray painting and
people further destroying Bombay got under Salma’s skin. When she moved to
Bombay Beach she enjoyed the fact that the town looked apocalyptic and decayed.
When out of towners came and desecrated ruins, she became vigilant.
Once,
after first moving to Bombay, Salma was walking home down 5th Street
toward Aisle of Palms and saw a tan Dodge Shadow parked precarious on the side
of street. Walking toward the Shadow, Salma saw two young men in what was left
of a streamline style trailer spray painting their names with what looked like
a cat. It was dusk, the sky burnt orange, the Salton Sea a gorgeous blue and
that same familiar fish stench permeated the air.
Salma
yelled, “WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU DOING IN THERE?” before sprinting towards the
streamline.
The
boys looked at each other, dropped their spray paint cans and ran further into
the trailer looking for escape. Salma ran into the open section of the trailer
screaming like a banshee about disrespecting property, calling the police and
calling their parents. She stopped for a moment to catch her breath and heard
giggles from a closed door in the front most portion of the streamline. Walking
quietly toward the giggling, Salma opened the door in a dramatic display and
began reciting Shania Twain’s “Man, I Feel Like A Woman” in her native Turkish
tongue while waving her arms in the air above her head. The situation played
out with Salma looking and acting like a crazed person reciting a curse. The
young men had no idea what to think, panicked and ran past Salma out of the
trailer, to the Dodge Shadow and sped out of Bombay Beach. Salma continued her
walk home laughing to herself of her heroics of the evening. “This is my town. Ain’t
no one going to mess with it. Wanna make some
noise, really raise my voice. Yeah,
I wanna scream and shout.
Man I Feel Like A Woman!” she sang to herself.
It
was just after 1 when the first customer of the day came into the shack. The
tiny bell nailed at the top of the door jingled. Salma was sitting behind the
register and looked up from her sketchbook. A man in his late thirties,
balding, wearing black slacks, a black button-down shirt with exotic flowers
and shiny dress shoes with tassels stood in the doorway looking up, down and
around The Salty Shack.
Salma
cleared her throat and forced a smile and asked, “May I help you?”
The
man turned and stared at Salma and asked “an ice cream sandwich. It’s quite hot
out there.”
“Yes,
a normal July day in Bombay Beach. Not a cloud in the sky and so hot the smell
of the sea makes your stomach turn! Ice cream sandwiches are the third freezer
down.”
The
balding man looked at Salma over the rim of his glasses puzzled by her comment
and said “Th-Thank you” and walked toward the third freezer.
Salma
faked smiled again and turned back to her sketchbook. She was shading a sketch
of a fairy tale tower surrounded by a lake when the balding customer reappeared
at the counter with 6 ice cream sandwiches in his hands. He dropped the
sandwiches on the counter in front of the sketchbook.
My
name is Bob. I just moved here from Schenectady.” The balding man introduced
himself.
Salma
picked up and closed her sketchbook with an annoyance. “Welcome to Bombay
Beach. You’re a long way from Schenectady. Where abouts’ are you putting down
roots?”
“Avenue
H in between 3rd Street and 4th. Same block as The Sea of Life Church”
said Bob.
“So
what brings a man in all black twenty seven hundred miles from New York?” asked
Salma
“I’m
seeing Dean Martin at the North Shore Yacht Club Saturday night”.
Taking
aback by the comment, Salma asked “Dean Martin? At the North Shore Yacht Club?”
Bob
stared at Salma, tilted his head to the right, neck bones cracking his face
displayed a manually processing question look. His head popped upright and
commented “apologies, I’m going to listen to Dean Martin while I unpack; now
through Saturday night”.
Salma
stared at Bob and shifted her eyes left to right trying to understand what was
going on in The Salty Shack at 1pm in the afternoon.
“$4.25
for the uh, um…”
“Ice
cream sandwiches. They are so delectable I can eat two at a time.” Bob
responded
He
handed Salma a five-dollar bill and she gave seventy-five cents change. She
asked if he needed a bag, forgetting the ten-cent state fee.
“No
need! Ill finish these before I get home!” Bob responded and walked out of The
Salty Shack.
Salma
took a minute to replay everything that happened over the last 10 minutes to
reassure herself she was not crazy. A balding man in all black came into the
store and bought six ice cream sandwiches, said he was seeing Dean Martin
Saturday night and he would finish all ice cream sandwiches before he got home.
“Another
day in Bombay Beach! Another day in this oddity paradise” she said to herself.
The Sultan of Salton
1:2
Refocusing,
Salma went back to her sketchbook and opened to the sketch of the tower
surrounded by a lake. Her focus was the shadowing around the base of the tower
where it met the water. Her mind drifted; who is in this tower? Why would
someone lock a person away from any human contact? Why make them a prisoner or
why are they being protected?
Thoughts drifted through her mind as she
shaded up the tower. Salma was so focused in the tower surrounded by water she
didn’t hear the little bell nailed to the door jingle. It wasn’t until a
high-pitched giggle brought her back to reality with a snap as her pencil broke
against the sketchbook paper. Shaking her head, Salma reacquainted herself with
her surroundings. A young couple had entered The Salty Shack, tourists EOTWS by
the looks of them, looking at the dried petrified tilapia bodies mounted to
wooden plaques. The wooden plaques had brass placards that read: Best Catch At
The Salton Sea, Fishing Is Cheaper Than Therapy, Fishing: It’s All About How
You Wiggle Your Worm and Fish Come In Three Sizes Small, Medium And The One
That Got Away. The man of the duo just chuckled away at the witty sayings under
the mounted fish. His girlfriend looked on at the coolers of drinks and freezer
of different ice cream selections.
“Can
I..” clearing her throat “Can I help you folks? Questions about the tilapia?
Friends will be jealous if you take one back to where you’re visiting from!”
Salma said trying to sound like P.T. Barnum with a sale pitch.
The
boyfriend responded “nah we’re here to see the sad dilapidation and the former
glory that
Salma,
without missing a beat, slid a quick grim grin across her face and began a
history of Bombay Beach and The Salton Sea. The communities that had developed
and flourished in the sea’s aftermath. How The Salton Sea is a prime example of
global, ecological impact and the effects of human interference and how the
younger generation such as the young couple in The Salty Shack have no respect
for Mother Earth, the environment around them, the community in voice this
community needs to yell we are living and we will thrive, and you know what you
both need to leave. Now.
Salma
stared at the young couple her left eyebrow raised to the ceiling and fire in
her eyes. Her heart raced, and adrenaline pumped as the young couple exited.
The door to The Salty Shack closed silently and her heart began to slow to a
normal pace. “Morons!” she said aloud.
Salma
closed The Salty Shack at seven in the evening. Pulling the door closed with a
thud and locking the dead bolt. Salma inhaled a deep breath, mentally blocking
out the dead fish smell, and crossed 5th Street walking up and over
the sand barrier to the stark white sandy shore of The Salton Sea. Salted petrified
bones and bodies of tilapia crunched under her Doc Martens as she approached the
water. Salma stopped at a rusted-out oil drum. The drum had been cut open and fashioned
into a make shift chair. Complete with outdoor cusion.
Salma
sat in her make shift chair and stared out across the sea. The sea was calm and
resembled a mirror reflecting the evening clouds, sky and Mount Lagoon on the
opposite side of The Salton Sea. Oranges, reds, pinks and purples were painted
overhead, and Salma enjoyed that it was all for her. There appeared to be no
soul around for the entire stretch of the beach.
As
Salma stared across the sea admiring Mount Laguna, the first star appeared to
the right of its peak. Faint but there. Maybe it was Venus she thought to
herself as she became more relaxed in her make shift beach chair. In a state of
Zen, Salma closed her eyes.
Salma
dreamed she was young about seven sitting on a sofa watching television. The
living room was dark except for the television light. Another faint light came
from the right toward the kitchen and a smell of hot chocolate. Salma looked
left out the living room window and saw darkness then snow falling around a
street light. She focused back on the television and noticed The Snowman
playing on the screen. Her mother now joined her on the sofa, both sharing a
patchwork quilt. Hot chocolate now in her hands as well as her mothers. “It’s
going to be a snow day for you Sally Doll. No school!” Her mother said with
excitement. Salma smiled and watched the television screen smiling. The happy
dream turned into a nightmare quickly when a hot breath crept across young
Salma’s face. Turning her head right her mother’s face had turned demonic.
Round ping pong ball size eyes protruded from their sockets locking sight with
Salma’s eyes. An extra wide grin of serrated teeth that dripped saliva
stretched across her mother’s former face. She felt a scream building from deep
within and Salma closed her eyes.
Shaken…
Salma
opened her eyes slowly. In a blurred vision a wide, thin mouth with serrated
teeth appeared inches from the right side of her face. The mouth opened, as if
inhaling, and leaned closer to her cheek. Salma awoke in a spasm of fear,
lurched out of her chair flailing both arms at nothing. Settling back into her
beach chair, Salma rubbed her eyes now fully awake.
“That
was odd. Normally Mom dreams leave me feeling at peace” whispering to herself.
Salma
had napped for about an hour she gathered. The sun had set and left the sky
deep purple with a few scattered clouds. More stars had joined Venus in the
early night sky. Salma stood, stretched, raised her arms over her head and
twisted her body to the right stretching. Next to her barrel chair a pile
sticks she hadn’t noticed before. Lowering her arms, she looked at the pile
quizzically. The image of that serrated tooth grin crept back into her mind.
She shook her head and the thought of that heinous grin left her mind. At least
for the moment. Salma gathered herself and began her walk home.
The Sultan of Salton
1:3
The
Salton Sea 1966, a summer evening in July, a cool breeze came off the sea
giving the party goers at the North Shore Yacht Club a cooling reprieve. After
a very relaxing day on the Salton Sea’s shores, vacationers danced, drank, and
danced some more. Dean Martin had been billed and the yacht club had sold out
of tickets. Even the VIP tickets for the exclusive Compass Room had sold out.
It seemed everyone around The Salton Sea was at the North Shore Yacht Club.
In
Bombay Beach 10-year-old Carl Bond watched Flipper on a small thirteen inch
black and white television. His mother, Elaine, won 2 VIP tickets to the North
Shore Yacht Club to see Dean Martin that evening. It didn’t take much to
persuade her girlfriend, Helen, to go. Helen had seen Dean Martin in concert 9
times, had all his records and even a lock of his hair she obtained from when
she was in his “unauthorized” fan club. Asking Helen to go had the added
advantage of Helen’s daughter Tabatha baby sit Carl.
Elaine kissed Carl on the forehead and
wished him good night then left with Helen for the North Shore Yacht Club.
Tabatha was quick to rush Carl off to bed as soon as the ladies were out the
door. “Not until Flipper is over” he demanded. Tabatha rolled her eyes and
looked at the clock on the wall. 7:45, she can wait 15 minutes.
Flipper ended, and the credits began to
roll. “Ok, bedtime!” said Tabatha. “You don’t have to fall asleep, but I want
you in your room not making a sound”. Carl obliged and sulked off to his room.
He changed into his Flipper pj’s and crawled into bed. Tossing and turning he
couldn’t keep his mind from racing. Tonight’s episode was too exciting. Flipper’s
adventure contained; sharks chasing the adventurous dolphin, swimmers in
danger, and caused Carl’s adrenaline to flow! Laying in his bed he got an idea,
‘are there dolphins in the Salton Sea?’
Carl quietly stepped onto the floor. Tip
toed to his bedroom door which was left slightly opened. He heard Tabatha
chatting on the phone, giggling and talking about a boy she met on the beach.
Carl put socks and his Converse on and lastly his LA Dodgers baseball cap.
Sneaking out of his bedroom, down the hall to the kitchen Carl grabbed a
flashlight from the pantry and quietly stepped out the backdoor into the
backyard.
Elaine and Carl’s house was located on
Avenue G and 1st Street in Bombay Beach. Four blocks away from the
beach and the gorgeous crystal-clear Salton Sea. Carl crept silently along the
side of the house; hearing Tabatha’s voice through the open windows. Walking down
Avenue G he began to sprint to the sea after crossing 2nd Street. Carl
reached the beach and collapsed to catch his breath. After a few minutes he was
back on his feet and walking toward the waters edge. A full moon hung in the
evening sky and gave the beach a faint ghostly glow.
Carl walked along the sand then stopped and
looked out onto the sea for any slight movements that could be a dolphin. There
was no movement and The Salton Sea was calm and still as if a piece of glass reflecting
the moon and the stars overhead. Carl continued walking along the beach and
came across a paddle boat vendor stand. Closed for the night, that paddle boats
were lined up waiting for customers the following morning. Carl got an idea and
looked for a small paddle boat in the lineup. He found a small paddle boat,
white with a red stripe two-seats that gleamed in the moon light.
Dragging the paddle boat to the water’s
edge, Carl hopped in and began paddling out onto the calm Salton Sea.
Paddling a paddle boat by oneself and
looking out over the sea for dolphins, proved a little difficult for Carl. On
the opposite shore, the lights of Salton City reflected on the sea’s surface. The
silhouetted shape of Mount Laguna towered behind Salton City in a void of
blackness. Carl turned his head back toward Bombay Beach and realized he had
paddled farther than he had wanted. Using the rudder handle, he began paddling
back toward the beach. Being only one paddler, it took careful maneuvering to
steer and paddle the boat safely.
As Carl began to paddle closer to shore, a
crack of thunder roared from the direction of Mount Laguna. Turning to see what the noise was, Carl saw a
fireball moving fast and aimed right for him. Panicked, he began to peddle
faster almost at a running stance. The little paddle boat chugged toward the
beach inch by inch. Tears began to run down Carl’s cheeks.
A second thunderous roar echoed over The
Salton Sea followed by a shock wave that raced across the surface of the sea
creating turbulent waves. The waves capsized the small paddle boat sending Carl
head first into the sea. Surfacing, gasping for air and watched the fireball
crash into the Salton Sea. The fireball quickly extinguished Carl gasped for
air. Waves crashed and smacked against him, he screamed for help. During his
screams, the fireball crashed into the sea with a massive splash! A deafening hiss
came next and a silver craft was exposed through the steam cloud. Carl blinked
twice then a blinding light exploded from the silver craft and grabbed at Carl
like two hands. Carl’s vision went black and he passed out.